Gucci _ Cruise 2018 Full Fashion Show _ Exclusive.mp4
FLORENCE —"Renaissance rock 'n' roll."
With that aphorism, Alessandro Michele summed up his Gucci cruise drove, shown at the Palatina Gallery at Pitti Palace here on Monday evening, which, to be sure, combined elements dear to the designer — his rich embroideries and decorations, likewise as that edgy, cool gene that would not be lost on Sir Elton John, one of his front row guests, who wore a night jacket with a dazzling sequined, multicolored lizard running down one side.
The location could inappreciably take been more fitting for the lineup as the frescoed rooms were chock with masterpieces from the likes of Rubens, Tintoretto, Titian, Velázquez and Caravaggio and guests were able to make a special visit of the Uffizi Museum and the enclosed passageway Vasari Corridor. "I am always connected with the Renaissance a lot, that's why I am connected with Pitti Palace," explained Michele backstage after greeting François-Henri Pinault and Salma Hayek Pinault, who told the designer she felt this was his "best collection" so far.
"I was thinking of injecting some rock 'northward' ringlet in the collection, thinking of faces like [Simonetta] Vespucci [known for her dazzler and a model of Botticelli's]. She was stone 'n' roll at the fourth dimension." To wit, 1 model wore her pilus in a Venus-by-Botticelli-similar fashion, and pearls and nice laurel crowns framed the models' faces every bit they walked in, say, a short brocade dress with a ruffled neck or a billowing pleated chiffon dress in different shades of pink. "I adore pink, information technology's very powerful. It makes you lot feel sweet and sexy, likewise if you are a man," mused Michele.
The designer continued to explore the brute and flora themes that he has fabricated his own — think roses on pleated gowns and a shirt with a naturalistic print of different fish worn by a male model. Vocaliser Francesco Bianconi walked the track wearing a conform with a tapestry print with crimson roses.
"At the beginning I was thinking of Greece and Athens just information technology was not possible, and then I was thinking what was the most powerful place for that kind of inspiration," said Michele of the failed try to prove at the Acropolis and instead opting for Florence. "Everything started from the idea of the Mediterranean, the antiquarian Greek and Roman culture, how it however transforms everything. The other big step was the Renaissance so I came here and it was the right moment for the make, the company started here, what I am doing is closer to the metropolis than at other moments of the company. Florence is however i of the nearly fascinating metropolises of the past. I adore the classical pieces of our culture, the Greek and Roman are still inside and everywhere, information technology'southward incommunicable to disconnect. I feel very comfortable here."
Offer an intriguing connection that was lost on some backstage, Michele compared Florence to Napa Valley and Los Angeles. "This identify is not about the past, it's like Napa Valley now, with everything happening."
He emphasized how "the very starting time of European aesthetics started from Florence. Everything here was dazzler, money and creativity, the power of the adept money," he said, referring to the influence families such as the Medicis had on culture and the arts. "It's still fascinating, it's nevertheless in our culture, still here."
The designer continued to embrace his signature eccentricity, with vintage-looking jogging pants worn under ruffled shirts or a calorie-free burgundy matelassé coat with a green neckline and pocket details, for example. A dragon ran all around the stiff neckband of a red and black jacket and on the front of a bag. "Eccentricity is not past accident, it'south something that means y'all are trying to translate your point of view, also something very simple, it makes you feel a rare chemical element of the globe," he said. Speaking of bags: The designer went big, with maxi-totes looking new.
Michele is not 1 to shy abroad from the Gucci logo. On the contrary, he spun it on midi skirts, a men'south pantsuit, as well as on bomber jackets and furs. "The Gucci logo is the hieroglyph of the company, it's the biggest ornamentation, it'south similar a popular symbol, it makes everything powerful so I love it," remarked Michele, who Anglicized it at times, turning the moniker into "Guccy," paired with a teddy bear design. "Guccify" was splashed beyond the back of one jacket embellished with two azure Chinese guardian lions.
The designer also likes ambivalence. He explained of the box he designed for guests equally a souvenir of Florence, with Urtica Ferox, or Tree Nettle, stamped on it and with a Gucci cap in a jute bag. "It's a beautiful box, merely you don't know if information technology'south poison, a medicine or a perfume. Information technology's from New Zealand, and it was the most exotic affair to have in the Renaissance. It was so rare, but at that time, you could find it in Florence, [signifying] the richness of that time."
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There is no denying Michele's ability to work with Gucci'due south artisans, creating designs filled with details, embroideries, rich textures and decoration. And especially in this location, the drove reflected more than ever the designer'south inventiveness, which has turned the visitor effectually and made Gucci a hot name again. How he will further develop this inventiveness is the question at present.
No matter — the guests who braved the sweltering Florence heat were all in the moment. Amid them, several hailed from the music globe, including Claret Orange, who was taking over Instagram stories for Gucci; Childish Gambino; Soko, and Baustelle.
Wearing an intricately decorated minidress, Saoirse Ronan said she felt her outfit "was a piece of art that should be hung." Ronan described the tour of the Uffizi and of the Corridor equally, "a special moment." Upwardly next, she will be playing Mary Queen of Scots. Her latest effort, "Lady Bird," written and directed past Greta Gerwig, will be out in the fall.
Kirsten Dunst said she "couldn't be happier virtually the great reaction" her latest picture show, "The Beguiled," received at the Cannes Flick Festival and near managing director Sofia Coppola's win. Over the next month, Dunst will promote the movie in the U.S. Of the Uffizi, she said she had done a private bout four years ago. "And so I didn't take to worry about wearing heels today," she added.
A regular Gucci attendee, Dakota Johnson but finished filming the remake of Dario Argento'southward "Suspiria," which she defined as "one of the greatest films ever and very influential."
Jared Leto seemed unfazed by the soaring temperatures and appeared in a long lilac velvet coat, which he took off midshow. "Are you doing a Biblical film?" wondered Elton John well-nigh Leto's long hair and beard. "Seriously, you expect like you are playing Jesus." The legendary singer later turned to Beth Ditto, exclaiming, "I beloved your record, Beth."
Every bit reported, Gucci will donate $2.one million to back up the restoration of Florence's Boboli Gardens. The Palatina Gallery overlooks the gardens. This was the first time a fashion bear witness has been held there. The result is part of a cultural project with the Uffizi Gallery and the city of Florence and the donation will exist given over three years. For the apply of the Palatina Gallery, Gucci spent some other 200,000 euros, or $213,344 at electric current commutation.
Gucci is based in Florence, but Tom Ford was the last designer to nowadays a Gucci collection in the metropolis, in 1995.
In recent years, Gucci has established cultural collaborations with Palazzo Strozzi in Florence, the Minsheng Art Museum in Shanghai, Chatsworth Business firm in England and LACMA in Los Angeles. Last year, the brand unveiled its cruise pre-collection with a rails show held in the Cloisters of London'due south Westminster Abbey. The previous year, Michele showed his cruise 2016 drove in New York.
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